1080 Ti / 1080
1070 Ti / 1070
6GB / 3GB
1050 Ti / 1050
|GPU ENGINE SPECS|
|CUDA Cores||3584 / 2560||2432 / 1920||1280 / 1152||768 / 640|
|Base Clock (MHz)||1480 / 1607||1607 / 1506||1506||1290 / 1354|
|Base Clock (MHz)||1480 / 1607||1607 / 1506||1506||1290 / 1354|
|Boost Clock (MHz)||1582 / 1733||1683 / 1683||1708||1392 / 1455|
|Memory Speed||11 Gbps / 10 Gbps||8.0 Gbps||8.0 Gbps||7.0 Gbps|
|Standard Memory Config||11 GB GDDR5X / 8 GB GDDR5X||8 GB GDDR5||6 GB GDDR5 / 3 GB GDDR5||4 GB GDDR5 / 2 GB GDDR5|
|Memory Interface Width||352-bit / 256-bit||256-bit||192-bit||128-bit|
|Memory Bandwidth (GB/sec)||484 / 320||256||192||112|
|Graphics Card Power||250W / 180W||180W /150W||120W||75W|
|Maximum Digital Resolution*||7680x4320 @60Hz||7680x4320 @60Hz||7680x4320 @60Hz||7680x4320 @60Hz|
|Maximum VGA Resolution||2048x1536||2048x1536||2048x1536||2048x1536|
|Standard Display Connectors||Dual Link DVI-I, HDMI 2.0b, 3x Display Port 1.4||Dual Link DVI-I, HDMI 2.0b, 3x Display Port 1.4||Dual Link DVI-I, HDMI 2.0b, 3x Display Port 1.4||Dual Link DVI-I, HDMI 2.0b, 3x Display Port 1.4|
|Multi Monitor||4 displays||4 displays||4 displays||4 displays|
|* 2 - 7680x4320 at 60 Hz RGB 8-bit with dual DisplayPort connectors or 7680x4320 at 60 Hz YUV420 8-bit with one DisplayPort 1.3 connector.|
|NVIDIA SLI® Ready||Yes||Yes||No||No|
|NVIDIA GPU Boost™||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Dynamic Super Resolution||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
The installation process for software depends on your operating system and the program you are installing. As a result of these many combinations, we have created the steps below as a general guideline. The following does not cover errors during the installation process, as they are too vast for one document. Search on our site for further information on errors during the setup.
- Make sure your computer meets the system requirements of the program, game, or utility you are attempting to install.
- The manual or readme file contains exact instructions on how to install a program and are in the same directory as the installation files.
- When installing a program, utility, or game, it is always a good idea first to close or disable any other programs that are running.
- After installing a new program, if it prompts you to reboot the computer, do it.
Microsoft Windows users
- How to install from a CD or DVD.
- How to install from a download.
- How to install from a USB flash drive.
How to install from a CD or DVD
Many software titles, games, and utilities have an AutoPlay feature. This feature automatically starts a setup screen for the software when the CD or DVD is inserted. If your program contains this feature, follow the steps that appear after inserting the disc into the computer.
If AutoRun is disabled, or unavailable on your disc, follow these steps:
- Open My Computer.
- In the My Computer window, open the drive that contains the installation files. For example, if the files are on the CD-ROM drive, open the D: drive or letter of your CD-ROM drive.
- In the drive that contains your files, locate either the executable setup (i.e. “setup.exe”) or install file. Double-clicking on this file starts the installation process. If there are multiple setup or install files, locate the executable file or double-click each setup or install file until you find the file that starts the installation.
Install a CD on a computer with no disc drive
Some of the new computers may no longer have a disc drive. If your computer does not have a disc drive try installing what is on the CD from the Internet. Computer drivers, software for hardware devices, and some games and other programs are available for downloaded and can be installed from a download.
If the program is not available for download, copy all of the CD or DVD contents to another drive on another computer. For example, you could copy the contents of the disc to a USB flash drive and then install the program from the USB flash drive.
How to install from a Download
- Download the program from the website providing the program.
- Open the download folder.
- If the file you downloaded is an executable file, double-click the file icon to start the setup process. If the downloaded file is compressed (e.g., .zip), you must extract the file’s contents before setup can begin. Fortunately, this function is built into most versions of Windows.
- Once the files are extracted, double-click the setup to install.
How to install from a USB flash drive
- Open Windows Explorer or My Computer and find the USB drive that is often the last drive letter.
- Once the drive is opened find the setup or executable file, double-click the file icon to start the setup process.
Installing from MS-DOS or the Windows command line
Users installing a program from Microsoft DOS should have a basic understanding of the MS-DOS commands. If you are unfamiliar with any of the commands listed below, click the link to get additional information on that specific command.
- Before installing a program in MS-DOS, you must switch to the drive or directory that contains the installation files. If you are installing a program from a CD or diskette, switch to that drive. If the installation files are located in a different directory, use the dir command to list directories and the cd command to switch directories.
- Once you are in the directory or drive that contains the installation files, run the executable for setup. Many times this can be done by typing setup or install at the prompt to start the installation. If both of these commands give a bad command or file name error message, type dir *.exe or dir *.com or dir *.bat. These commands list any executable files found in the directory or drive. If any files are listed, execute these files to run the installation or setup of the program. If no files are listed when typing all three of the above commands, you’re in the incorrect directory or drive letter for that program.
Here’s what we know so far about the Xbox Series X.
Xbox Series X name and release date
Xbox Series X price
Xbox Series X specs
Xbox Series X games
What about virtual reality?
Xbox Series X vs gaming laptops
Xbox Series X design
Xbox Series X controller
SSD vs HDD – Battle of the Drives
Welcome to our SSD vs HDD guide, where we’ll look at the pros and cons of traditional hard drives (HDD) and solid state drives (SSD) to help you choose which one is the best for your needs.
When you’re looking to buy a new computer or laptop, or if you’re researching ways to upgrade your machine, you’ll see a lot of references to both hard drives and SSDs, but which one is best for you?
Here we’ll compare the two storage mediums, look at which tasks they excel in, and which ones they’re not so good at.
If you’ve got a desktop PC, then you’ll have the luxury of being able to install both types of hard drive at once. If you go down that route, this guide will help you identify the best ways to use those drives to maximize their performance.
Before we dive into comparing SSD vs HDD technology, let’s take a quick look at each type of drive.
What is a traditional hard disk drive (HDD)?
If you have a desktop PC it will most likely have a traditional hard disk drive, on which the operating system, along with any applications you install, and your files and folders, are stored.
A traditional hard drive contains a circular disc – known as a platter – that stores your data. The disc spins, allowing the read-write arm to read data on the disc (or write data to it) as it passes.
The faster the platter spins, the faster the hard drive works, which can impact how quickly your operating system responds, and how long it takes applications installed on the drive to load and open.
Older hard drives use an IDE port to connect to the motherboard of a PC, but most modern hard drives use a SATA connection. The most recent version of SATA, SATA III, is found on modern motherboards, and enables the fastest possible data transfers for a HDD.
What is a solid state drive (SSD)?
A solid state drive (SSD) is newer storage technology, but it’s still been around for a while now, and if you have a modern laptop, it’s likely that it uses an SSD.
As the name suggests, an SSD – unlike a traditional hard drive – has no moving parts. Instead, it uses NAND flash memory. The more NAND (Negative-AND) memory chips an SSD has, the more storage capacity it has. Modern technology allows SSDs to have more NAND chips than ever, which means SSDs can have capacities similar to HDDs.
Many SSDs come with SATA III ports, which means they can be easily installed in place of a HDD, and many also come in the 2.5-inch format that smaller hard drives also come in. However, the maximum data throughput of SATA III is 600MB/s, and while this is fine for HDDs, SDDs are capable of much faster speeds, which means if you have an SSD with a SATA III connection, the drive’s performance is actually being held back by its SATA connection.
To avoid that bottleneck, you can get SSDs that have a PCIe connection. These drives slot into the PCIe lane of a motherboard, enabling much faster speeds. However, if you have a smaller motherboard, or you use your PCIe lanes for other devices, such as graphics cards or sound cards, then you may not want an SSD taking up a lane.
Another increasingly common connection for SSDs is the M.2. If your laptop uses an SSD, it’s most likely using an M.2 connection, and most modern desktop PCs have motherboards with an M.2 port. M.2 SSDs are typically smaller than other SSDs, which means they can be easily installed without impacting your other components.
NVMe (Non-Volatile Memory Express) is the newest SSD technology, and offers incredibly fast data transfer speeds.
SSD vs HDD: price
When you’re choosing between an SSD and HDD, the first big difference you’ll notice at first is the price. SSDs are typically more expensive per gigabyte than traditional hard drives.Advertisement
However, it’s worth noting that some SSDs are more expensive than others. Older SATA III SSDs are cheaper than M2 and PCIe SSDs, and because the technology has been around for a while, certain SATA III SSDs aren’t all that more expensive than a traditional hard drive.
If you want the most capacity for the least amount of money, HDDs are the way to go. Manufacturing processes for traditional HDDs mean they’re now relatively cheap to produce, which makes them more affordable.
You can get some large HDDs for very low prices, but if you’re keeping important data on the drives, it’s best to check out user reviews and reports about their reliability.
SSD vs HDD: capacity
Closely tied to the price when comparing SSDs and HDDs is the capacities of the drives. Generally, if you’re after a lot of storage space, HDD is the way to go.
HDD capacities range from 40GB up to 12TB for commercial hard drives, while there are even larger capacities for enterprise use. These days you can get a 2TB hard drive for an affordable price, which offers you plenty of space. HDDs around the 8TB to 12TB size are primarily used for servers and NAS devices, where you need a lot of space for holding backups.
Generally, we’d recommend having several smaller hard drives rather than a single large hard drive. This is because if the drive fails, you may lose all your data – if your data is held across several drives, if one drive fails, you won’t lose everything.
So, HDDs are good for storing lots of large files, which makes them good for holding photos, videos and games.
In the past SSDs generally weren’t capable of such large capacities, but thanks to advances in technology you can now get SSDs with terabytes of storage. However, this comes at a premium, and large SDDs often come with prohibitively high price tags.
If you can, it’s a good idea to go for a smaller SSD, maybe around 128GB–256GB, to hold programs such as your operating system, for which you want to take advantage of the SSD’s higher speed, and then use a HDD to store other files where speed isn’t as important.
SSD vs HDD: speed
In the match-up between SSDs vs HDDs, speed is where we really begin to see a difference. Solid state drives have always been much faster than traditional hard drives, but with SSD technology advancing all the time, and the SATA III bottleneck removed, the difference is now starker than ever.
First, let’s look at HDD speeds. Because these drives using a spinning platter, the speed of the drive is largely dependent on the RPM (revolutions per minute) the drive is capable of – and the higher the RPM, the faster the drive can perform. Many budget hard drives have an RPM of 5,400 RPM, which is the slowest speed modern hard drives are capable of – you’re better off going for a drive that can achieve 7,200 RPM, which is what most modern HDDs will be rated at.
You can get higher-RPM drives, up to 10,000 RPM and even higher, but these are rarer and more expensive.
SSD and HDD speeds are measured in MB/s (megabytes per second) for both read (how fast the drive can read data) and write (how fast data can be written to the drive).
There are other factors in play that determine HDD speeds, such as capacity, but in general a SATA III hard drive at 5,400 RPM will have speeds of around 100MB/s, while a 7,200 RPM will be 150MB/s.
Because SSDs don’t have any moving parts their speeds aren’t dependent on RPMs, but on the technology – and the data connection – of the drive.
A solid state drive with a SATA III connection should achieve around 550MB/s read and 520MB/s write speeds, though some will be faster – but will max out at 600MB/s.
So, even with a SATA III connection, which limits the speed of SSDs, you’re getting around four times the speed of traditional hard drives. However, if you use one of the better-optimized connections for SSDs, the speed difference really opens up.
Average speeds for PCIe/M.2 SSDs range from around 1.2GB/s up to around 1.4GB/s – and if you’ve got the budget there are even some that can reach 2.2GB/s.
So, you’re looking at around 10 times the speed if you go for one of these SSDs. When it comes to speed and performance, SSDs are definitely the way to go.Advertisement
SSD vs HDD: other considerations
There are other things you should consider when thinking about whether to buy an SSD or HDD. For example, because SSDs don’t have any moving parts they’re more robust, which makes them a better choice for laptops and other mobile devices.
An SSD can also use less power than a HDD, which means laptops may benefit from longer battery lives when using an SSD – although this will depend on the kind of SSD you use, and what you use it for.
So is an SSD or a HDD best for you? While SSDs are faster, more robust and more power-efficient, HDDs are more affordable – especially when it comes to larger capacities.
As we mentioned earlier, if you have the option then it may be worth getting a smaller SSD for your operating system and apps, along with a HDD to store your files. There are also hybrid drives, known as SSHDs, which offer the best of both worlds, with the speeds of SSDs and the capacities of HDDs in a single drive, and which are worth considering if you don’t have the space in your device for multiple hard drives.
The two biggest drivers of speed for a PC are Storage (Drives) and RAM. More RAM improves PC performance, not just for hardcore applications like games but also more common apps like web browsers. DDR3 was a giant leap over its predecessor DDR2, and this comparison looks at whether that is true for DDR4 as well.
The DDR4 standard offers higher module density, better reliability, higher transfer rates and decreased voltage thereby providing increased speed and better power efficiency. It is also a standard designed with the future in mind; e.g., it supports 3D stacking of dies with through-silicon-vias (TSVs) which allows increasing module density by stacking up to 8 dies. But in practice users may not experience a noticeable difference in performance when using DDR4 RAM modules available today.
|Voltage||1.5 Volts (standard); 1.65 Volts (high performance); 1.35 V (low voltage)||1.2 Volts (standard); 1.35 V (high performance); 1.05 V (low voltage)|
|Speed||800 Mhz, 1066 Mhz, 1333 Mhz, 1600 Mhz and 1866 Mhz||800 Mhz, 1600 Mhz, 2133 Mhz|
|Modules||240-pin DIMM (same size as DDR2 but are electrically incompatible with DDR2 DIMMs and have a different key notch location). DDR3 SO-DIMMs have 204 pins.||288-pin DIMMs but similar in size to 240-pin DDR3 DIMMs. DDR4 SO-DIMMs have 260 pins.|
|Bus clock||400-1066 MHz||1066-2133 MHz|
|Internal Rate||100-266 MHz||100-266 MHz|
|Transfer Rate||0.80-2.13 GT/s (gigatransfers per second)||2.13-4.26 GT/s (gigatransfers per second)|
|Channel Bandwidth||6.40-17.0 GBps||12.80-25.60 GBps|
|Release date||2007||September 2012|
DDR3 vs DDR4
Is DDR4 backwards compatible?
Spot the difference: schematic of the physical design of DDR2, DDR3 and DDR4 DIMMs.
DDR4 is not backward compatible with DDR3 motherboards because the physical design of modules (DIMMs) for DDR4 and DDR3 are different.
DDR4 vs DDR3 DIMMs
DDR3 modules use 240 pins and DDR4 DIMMs use 288 pins. Both DDR3 and DDR4 DIMMs are 5¼ inch (133.35 mm) in length but the pins in DDR4 are spaced closer (0.85mm) than DDR4 (1mm).
They are also different in height and thickness — the increased height of DDR4 modules (31.25mm instead of DDR3’s 30.35mm) makes signal routing easier, and the increased thickness (1.2mm vs. DDR3’s 1mm) accommodates more signal layers.
The position of the notch on DDR4 memory modules is also different from DDR3 modules. This prevents accidental insertion of the wrong type of memory because they are not backward compatible.
The DDR4 standard allows for DIMMs of up to 64 GiB in capacity, compared to DDR3’s maximum of 16 GiB per DIMM.
DDR4 is designed for transfer rates of 2.13 to 4.26 GT/s, which is significantly higher than DDR3’s transfer rates of 0.8 to 2.13 GT/s.
|DIMM Type||Data Rate||Module Name||Peak Transfer Rate|
|DDR4-2133||2133 MT/s||PC4-17000||17064 MB/s|
|DDR4-2400||2400 MT/s||PC4-19200||19200 MB/s|
|DDR4-2666||2600 MT/s||PC4-20800||20800 MB/s|
|DDR4-2800||2800 MT/s||PC4-22400||22400 MB/s|
|DDR4-3000||3000 MT/s||PC4-24000||24000 MB/s|
|DDR4-3200||3200 MT/s||PC4-25600||25600 MB/s|
But this does not always translate to better practical performance.
AnandTech also ran tests comparing DDR3 and DDR4 and concluded that
Overall, comparing DDR4 to DDR3, there is little difference to separate the two. In a couple of small instances one is better than the other, but on those edge cases it might be prudent to say that we cannot make a final decision until we can synchronize the rest of the system, such as the size of CPU caches. When we can perform such tests, we will run some more numbers.
JEDEC, the organization that designs DDR standards lists some technical features of DDR4 on their website:
- Three data width offerings: x4, x8 and x16
- New JEDEC POD12 (1.2V) interface standard for DDR4
- Differential signaling for the clock and strobes
- Nominal and dynamic ODT: Improvements to the ODT protocol and a new Park Mode allow for a nominal termination and dynamic write termination without having to drive the ODT pin
- Burst length of 8 and burst chop of 4
- Data masking
- DBI: to help reduce power consumption and improve data signal integrity, this feature informs the DRAM as to whether the true or inverted data should be stored
- 512 K page size for x4 devices: reduces power (less activation power), and extends the usefulness of x4 devices, which allow for more efficient EDC solutions for high-end systems
- Programmable refresh: Reducing performance penalty of dense DDR4 devices by allowing for refresh intervals ranging from 1x to .0625x the normal refresh interval
- CRC computation/validation across the data bus: Enabling error detection capability for data transfers – especially beneficial during write operations and in non-ECC memory applications
- New CA parity for command/address bus: Providing a low-cost method (parity) to verify the integrity of command and address transfers over a link, for all operations
- Per-DRAM Addressability: Can uniquely select and program DRAMs within a memory structure
- DLL off mode supported
DDR3 or DDR4: Which one should I choose?
For most consumers the choice will be simple because DDR4 is not backward compatible. If your motherboard was designed for DDR3, then that’s what you can choose. Even if you’re setting up a new PC, you will still choose based on the other components — the CPU and motherboard — of the system.
Some of the latest CPUs from both Intel and AMD support DDR4 SDRAM and some are still designed for DDR3. DDR4 would have been a good way to future-proof a new PC but chances are DDR3 will continue to be in wide use for the next 1-3 years at least. And future gains in DDR4 performance probably won’t benefit current systems because the clock speeds won’t match.
How to Subscribe to Etisalat Night Plan
The Etisalat night plan (9Mobile Night Plan) is only available on the Easycliq tariff plan, and only usable between 12:00AM and 5:00AM. The steps to activating the plan are as follow:
- If you are not Easycliq tariff plan, migrate to the plan by dialing *244*1#.
- Ensure you have a minimum of ₦50 on your SIM for the 250MB plan or N200 for the 1GB plan
- Dial *229*10*10# to activate the plan for 250MB or *229*3*11# for the 1GB plan
How to Subscribe to Etisalat(9mobile) Data Plans
|10MB @ ₦50||24 Hours||*229*3*8#|
|40MB @ ₦100||24 Hours||*229*3*1#|
|150MB @ ₦200||7 Days||*229*2*10#|
|1GB @ ₦500||One Weekend||*5995*2#|
|500MB @ ₦500||30 Days||*229*2*12#|
|1GB @ ₦1,000||30 Days||*229*2*7#|
|1.5GB @ ₦1,200||30 Days||*229*2*25#|
|2.5GB @ ₦2,000||30 Days||*229*2*8#|
|3.5GB @ ₦2,500||30 Days||*229*2*26#|
|5GB @ ₦3,500||30 Days||*229*2*9#|
|11.5GB @ ₦8,000||30 Days||*229*2*5#|
To enjoy the very cheap Airtel Night Plan, you have to opt-in to tariff plan called Airtel SmartTrybe.
To opt-in to Airtel Night Plan Dial *312#. You get: 30% extra data on bundles of N500 and above purchased in all campuses in Nigeria 1GB for N500. Valid for 7 day.
How to subscribe to Airtel Night Plan
- STEP 1: Migrate to Airtel SmartTrybe by dialing *312# then reply with 1.
- STEP 2: After the migration, dial *312#
- STEP 3: Reply 1 for 500MB for N25 valid from12am – 5am
- OR: Reply 2 for 1.5GB for N200 valid from12am – 5amEnjoy these night plan from Airtel
How to subscribe to Airtel Data Plan
To get started, Dial *141# OR…
Daily / Weekly Plans
|Price||Data Allowance||Validity||USSD CODE|
Airtel Customer Care
Simply call 111
MTN Recharge Code | How To Load Airtime On MTN SIM (USSD Code)
You should know that MTN Nigeria recharge codes contain a 12-digit PIN. So, follow the step below for loading airtime n your phone:
- To load or recharge an MTN line, dial recharge PIN in the following USSD format: *555*PIN# and then Send/Ok. For example, If the airtime PIN is 1111 2222 3333, include *555*111122223333# and press Send or Ok on your phone’s dialler.
- If successful, you can dial *556# to check account balance.
MTN Data Plans and Subscription Codes in Nigeria
Here are latest MTN Data Plan Prices. You will also see code for checking your MTN data subscription balance.
- 1.5GB Browsing Plan for Mobile (24/7 30 days) – text 106 to 131 – ₦1000
- 2GB MTN data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 130 to 131 – ₦1200
- MTN 3.5GB mobile data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 110 to 131 – ₦2000
- 6.5GB MTN data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 107 to 131 – ₦3500
- 11GB MTN data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 116 to 131 – ₦5000
- 25GB MTN data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 117 to 131 – ₦10000
- 40GB MTN data plan (24/7 30 days) – text 150 to 131 – ₦15000
- 1GB MTN Daily (24 hours) – SMS 155 to 131 – ₦350
- 2GB 2 days Plan (48 hours) – text 154 to 131 – 500 Naira
- 60GB MTN data plan (24/7, 60 days) – text 118 to 131 – 20000 NGN
- 120GB MTN data plan (24/7 90 days) – text 133 to 131 – 50000 NGN
- MTN 100GB data plan (60 days) – text 138 to 131 – 30,000 Naira
- MTN 150GB data plan (90 days) – text 134 to 131 – 70,000 Naira
- MTN Daily data plan for mobile, 75MB (24 hours) – SMS 104 to 131 – 100 NGN
- MTN Daily data plan for mobile, 25MB (24 hours) – SMS 114 to 131 – 50 NGN
- 200MB 2 days Package (48 hours) – text 113 to 131 – 200 Naira
- 750MB Weekly browsing for mobile (7 days) – text 103 to 131 – 500 NGN
- 350MB Weekly browsing for mobile (7 days) – text 102 to 131 – 300 NGN
To check your MTN browsing data balance, SMS 2 to 131.